Rediscovering Carmel-by-the-Sea

dawn • May 5, 2020

Once upon a time, in the year 1924 BC (Before COVID-19), 31-year old Hugh Comstock, journeyed from his Santa Rosa home to visit his sister living in Carmel on the Central Coast. Little could Comstock have realized the future repercussions of that fateful trek when he met his wife, Mayotta, who persuaded the novice builder to construct a custom bungalow to showcase her rag doll collection.


That now historical 244-square-foot gingerbread cottage, dubbed Hansel, would become the blueprint for its sister cottage, Gretel, built the next year, followed by 19 additional similar-style creations during a five-year period for local residents charmed by the gingerbread house design.


Of these remaining 21 Comstock originals in what is now officially known as Carmel-by-the-Sea, most are personal residences, aside from those used as a restaurant (Tuck Box), English-style candy store (Cottage of Sweets) or a B&B (Normandy Inn).

Regardless of purpose, they all play a role in characterizing this quaint hamlet that was once home to such luminaries as photographer Ansel Adams, authors Robert Louis Stevenson and Sinclair Lewis, and screen legends Doris Day and Clint Eastwood, who, after being elected the town’s mayor in 1986, immediately tossed out a 60-year zoning law banning the sale of ice cream cones. Now, that’s how to make someone’s day!


A week before COVID-19 melted away all my travel plans, I took the two-and-a-half-hour drive from my North Bay home to the European-style village sandwiched between the posh enclave of Pebble Beach’s multi-million McMansions to the north and the pictorial coastal landscape to the south with Point Lobos and Big Sur. While this was far from my first rodeo in Carmel-by-the-Sea, every visit unveils new experiences and my initial encounter this time did not disappoint.

My arrival to town was perfectly timed with the daily complimentary wine and cheese happy hour at my home away from home, The Hideaway, which, by name alone, justified General Manager Chris Whitman’s claim as Carmel’s “best-kept secret.” With its old charm aura blended with new amenities (double-sided fireplace in my room was a nice touch), this renovated boutique hotel on a quiet street was an ideal respite located a two-minute walk from the primary commerce drag of Ocean Ave.


It was soon thereafter that I recalled what sadly-missed celebrity chef and travel documentarian, Anthony Bourdain, once said, “Your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park. Enjoy the ride.”

Which was exactly what I did when I sat down at Cultura Comida y Bebida, a cozy restaurant tucked in a downtown alcove serving Oaxacan-inspired dishes. As a rookie to this type of fare, I received quite an exotic introduction. Until that moment, I had never knowingly chowed down an insect of any size but after the server convinced me of a chapuline’s (grasshopper) protein-rich nutritional value, I was sold. Besides, I felt comforted knowing there was plenty of Mezcal on standby!


For first-time visitors, it doesn’t take long to recognize Carmel-by-the-Sea opens a multitude of doors to unique discoveries. With a population of just under 4,000, every year more than 2 million visitors squeeze into a compact area (one-square mile in size) jammed packed with a maze of nooks and crannies that will boost your Fitbit meter exploring charming courtyards, more than 100 art studios, galleries and antique stores, a glutted menu of restaurants and bistros, a fashionable potpourri of boutique shops, and a double-digit (19) collection of wine tasting rooms representing Monterey County vintners.

Depending on consumption, your total step’s tally may depreciate but the good news is the freedom to research however many you’d like and not having to get behind the steering wheel. Park the car once and you’re good to go.


Typically, my exploring strategy starts at the corner of Ocean Avenue and Junipero Street, where the shop browsing begins, then continue heading downhill to the white sands of Carmel Beach, where all canines (and humans) are free to roam unleashed, a liberty that can be traced back to when actress Day became co-owner (mid-1980s) of the Cypress Inn and made it a pet-friendly hotel. Through the years, a number of local lodgings followed suit turning Carmel into one of the Fido-friendliest towns in America. Now, many downtown establishments attract man’s best friends with water bowls at their front doors, hoping, perhaps, to lure their masters inside.



From Italian to Mexican to Asian, most any regional cuisine is available in town, however, to score the real intelligence on Carmel-by-the-Sea, grab a barstool and glass at any of the local wine tasting rooms where conversations with the host can take more twists and turns than a politician. Rest assured, my civic interest was concerned more with the local Cabs and Pinots.


At Galante Vineyards, decked out in a Western motif, I became very content doing a lot more listening than speaking to Rick, the affable wine tender, while his pours became increasingly liberal and being educated on owner Jack Galante’s great-grandfather, J. Frank Devendorf, becoming the “Father” of Carmel-by-the-Sea after co-founding (with his partner, Frank Powers) the town in 1900.


Regrettably, my history lesson was abruptly interrupted when Rick felt compelled to offer some treats stashed away from Diggity Dogs to a friendly pup showing up at the front door.


Keeping my wine sampling all in the family, the next stop on my vintage parade was Dawn’s Dream Winery, run by Galante’s wife, and after testing their award-winning Chardonnay, Rosé, and Pinot Noir, I suddenly found myself relaxing in the waterless copper clawfoot bathtub used as a showpiece in her tasting room.

Whether day-dreaming in a tub or unplugging on the beach while being mesmerized by the setting sun, this seaside community in the forest serves as an essential and surreal escape where daily tribulations just seem to fade away.


Being without my pooch on this excursion, I was forced to depend on my sniffer to detect eatable treats. Not a problem. As quickly as I turned the corner from The Hideaway, the early morning sweet yeasty scent emanating from the bakery at Rise + Roam caught me hook, line, and sinker.



And the clincher was discovering it doubles as a pizzeria so, as the saying goes, “When in Rome,” I knew immediately where I was returning for dinner. The newly-opened restaurant from the owners of Folktale Winery features chefs Todd Fisher (also opened the exclusive steak house, Seventh & Dolores, in downtown Carmel) and chef Aaron Raynor (aka, Chief Dough Dude) dishing up the fast-trending roman style pizza, served by the meter on wooden paddles.

Recent News

By dawn July 24, 2021
Blog Review by Sharon from Decanting Monterey I don’t spend nearly enough time wine tasting in Carmel-by-the-Sea. Part of it is our search for warmth and sun. Part of it is not wanting to deal with crowds of people and parking. I did make it to a couple of the Carmel-by-the-Sea tasting rooms during COVID, mostly to pick up specific wines for my weekly class. Now that things are truly open, I want to get there more often. When I needed to find a new groomer for my dog (that is a long, pandemic story), I thought, “This could be a win-win!” I dropped my dog at the groomer and walked to a couple of nearby tasting rooms. Perfect! When can he get groomed again? A year after my little guy was banned by one groomer, we struck gold! Today’s post is about Galante Vineyards . Galante was the first winery to open a tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea. We have visited them several times over the many years. I learned from Kaela that Jack’s great grandfather was actually the founder of Carmel-by-the-Sea! Their roots in the area run deep! According to their website, Jack’s parents bought a cattle ranch in Carmel Valley and began growing grapes (focused on Cabernet Sauvignon) in 1983. Over a decade later, Jack decided to build a winery and make his own wine. There is definitely a ranch/cowboy theme in his tasting room and in his wines! If you are a big red drinker, you will find something to please your palate at Galante! The ranch is located in the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, home to several wineries large and small producing rich Bordeaux varietals. I contend that the climate and terroir of Cachagua result in some of the finest wines produced in Monterey County. I like my reds big – and the fruit in this region seems extra delicious. Today I am presenting 6 Galante red wines. The winery notes come from their website linked above.
By dawn April 23, 2020
I have been to tasting rooms throughout California’s wine regions and can say without hesitation that Galante is as intimate and relaxing a tasting room where I had the pleasure to taste. The best way to describe the tasting experience at Galante is to say it’s tough to leave. Sure, there are plenty of places to visit, but when you’re enjoying yourself and the wine is that good, why leave! The Galante Family has a long history in the Monterey area. Owner Jack Galante’s great grandfather, J.F. Devendorf, was the founder of the town of Carmel. He later built the Pine Inn and the prestigious Highlands Inn. In 1969, Jack’s parents purchased a 700-acre cattle ranch in rustic Carmel Valley. While still maintaining a working cattle ranch, the Galantes, in 1983, began growing premium grapes on their property, specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1994, Jack Galante decided to build a winery and use some of his grapes to produce ultra-premium estate bottled wines. Jack and his wife Dawn have both Galante and Dawn’s Dream – that opened five years ago. Look for a story on Dawn’s Dream in the next month here. To Jack, having a winery – or two – makes perfect sense. “I just drank heavily in college,” said Galante with a laugh as to why he started a winery. “Actually, it was a process of things. It was a natural field for me to go into.” As was the case with his family founding Carmel, Galante was the pace setter for wines in Carmel. They were the first tasting room to open in Carmel and with it, they brought a different perspective of what should make up a tasting room. Instead of being one of the grandiose facilities, Galante and his team opted for small and personal. “The whole thing to me is bring in the people you want to get to know,” said Galante. “To me, villas and chateaus are not real places for people to taste wine.” With so much going on the in the greater Monterey Peninsula, the growth, in terms of numbers and quality of wine in the area is often lost. Sometimes it takes extenuating circumstances to get the word out. “When the wild fires hit Napa and Sonoma, there were a lot of people that were re-routed down here,” said Galante. “Many of them had no idea there were so many wineries in the area. They were amazed, and I think it opened a lot of eyes.” As the region has grown in the wine world, Galante has stayed true to their original game plan. Stay affordable with your tasting fees, staying confident that once you get them in the door, the charm of the experience and the quality of wine will take over. “We don’t even cover our costs with our tasting fees, but we have a different philosophy down here,” explained Galante. “We have an 85 percent buy after tasting. People really enjoy the product and we love the experience of having them here.” And the wine is good. My favorite was the Blackjack Pasture, a strong Cabernet Sauvignon, but there is plenty of quality from which to choose. The Kickass is a fun blend, with the 2013 made up of 70% Malbec, 20% Petite Sirah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Centennial Cabernet Sauvignon, made in honor of the 100-year-anniverserary of Carmel is another strong bottle of wine. Galante has also produced some special bottles of wines for celebrities. His most recent was for John Daly. Having been in the tasting room on a couple of occasions, it’s clear the staff has fun with the customers and it’s an attitude that starts from the top. Jack Galante has a passion for both producing the wine and making it fun for the customers. “For me personally, there are two best things to being in the business,” said Galante. “One – the creation of the product from the ground all the way through to putting it in the bottle. I never get bored with the process. Second, on the social side it’s about creating a product that people don’t need, but they enjoy. Ninety-nine percent of the time we are dealing with happy people. There are a lot of choices for people to visit in the wine industry.” It’s a belief that permeates throughout the wineries in the area. “In Carmel, we all work 100 percent together,” said Galante. “There is none of the “I will be better than you.’ We are not vying for shelf space and we go out of the way to refer other wineries.” See the online story here  https://acesgolf.com/galante-vineyards-great-wines-and-a-great-time/
By dawn April 23, 2020
Dark berries, crushed gravel and muddy clay make for a rustic but compelling nose on this bottling from a warm valley. It's tightly wound on the palate, where a chalky mouthfeel delivers bright blackberry and red-currant flavors. MATT KETTMAN (Wine Enthusiast, 11/1/19) 90 POINTS
By dawn December 15, 2015
Theres a history Jon & Lynn Guess share with Galante. Introduced to the wines at the Taste of Monterey; Jon was looking for a “nice, upscale” bottle for a gift at Christmas………And so, the love affair began with Blackjack Pasture 11 years ago. Jon fell over the top and Galante has been his go-to ever since. In fact, 50% of their cellar is Galante wines including a Blackjack vertical beginning with 2005! After this Christmas it will be slightly less tho, as Santa is bringing 50 Saddlepack boxes packaged with 150 Galante wines…. home for the holidays. Lyn is enamored with Bulls Eye High. It was love at first sight, or shall we say taste…. Although, the bottle itself is rather a kick!Their most treasured bottle in the cellar is a vintage 1.5L Hock Magnum from 1994, etched with Red Roses. Presently, it contains 2012 Blackjack, until the next refill - - when Jon will proudly package up his prized Galante bottle in its custom wooden case, and send it back for what will likely be 2013 Blackjack Pasture. The Guess’s have earned their bragging rights as Foreman in the Wine Gang - but their real claim to fame is the one and only correct answer in the trivia competition at the Wine Gang Muster this year. “What was only year Blackjack Pasture was not bottled?”
By dawn November 4, 2015
By dawn October 1, 2015
By dawn August 6, 2015
By dawn June 8, 2015
By dawn April 14, 2015
Bulls Eye Red – A High Wine